Black coated Rolex Submariner Date with a matching dark bracelet.

Black Luxury Watches: Coatings, Materials and Custom Details

December 4, 2020

Why the Finish Matters

An all black watch can look very different from its polished steel counterpart. The dark case brings the hands, hour markers and dial details forward, while the bracelet or strap becomes part of the same outline. The photographs here bring together several past examples, rather than a collection of watches currently available for sale.

Factory Design or Aftermarket Work

The coated Rolex examples and customized Audemars Piguet in this feature were presented in our original article as aftermarket modifications. Their appearance should not be confused with an untouched factory configuration. The gallery also includes a Breitling, a Bell & Ross Radar and a Scheyden chronograph. For any available watch, ask which case, dial, bezel and bracelet details came from the manufacturer and which were changed later.

Black Coatings and Black Case Materials

A dark coating over metal is different from a case made from a dark material such as ceramic. PVD describes a deposition process; DLC is a type of carbon coating. Neither term means a watch is impossible to scratch. Look closely at edges, bracelet contact points and the clasp, where wear can reveal the finish beneath. The original Rolex feature used both PVD and DLC wording, so the exact coating of an individual example needs documentation.

Compare More Than the Color

Notice whether the hands remain easy to read and how the finish looks in daylight. The crosshair dial, black gem setting and colored radar display create very different effects despite their shared palette. Ask about modification history, service options and the condition of the movement as well as the exterior. A coating or custom setting does not establish water resistance or guarantee a future resale price.