Two open dial Cartier Santos watches with clear and multicolor gem settings.

Cartier Santos with Multicolor Gem Settings: An Archive Comparison

These two Cartier Santos watches share an open dial appearance and extensive gem decoration. One uses a mostly clear stone palette; the other carries bands of color across its bracelet and case. Seen together, they show how a setting pattern changes the character of a watch.

Clear and multicolor gem decorated Santos watches displayed together.
Clear and multicolor gem decorated Santos watches displayed together.

Follow the color around the bracelet

The multicolor example moves through cooler and warmer bands along the links. The mostly clear example places more emphasis on the rectangular stone pattern. Look at the bracelet as well as the dial when comparing the two.

Confirm what the stones are

The original article described multicolor sapphires and custom aftermarket work. Ask for records confirming stone identity, any treatments and the setting history. Color alone cannot identify a gemstone, and clear stones should not be assigned a diamond grade from a photograph.

Front view of the two open dial watches and their decorated bracelets.
Front view of the two open dial watches and their decorated bracelets.

Keep the model and decoration separate

“Chandelier” describes the heavily decorated look in this archive. It is not enough to identify a Cartier reference. Request the underlying reference and an account of changes to the case, dial and bracelet.

An open dial also does not tell you whether the movement is automatic or manually wound. Use instructions for the actual movement rather than a generic Santos description.

Bracelet links showing clear rectangular stones beside bands of colored stones.
Bracelet links showing clear rectangular stones beside bands of colored stones.

Inspect comfort and workmanship

Have a jeweler check setting security and a watch specialist assess the case, clasp and movement. Try the bracelet through its full range of movement and look for edges that catch on clothing. Confirm how future service can be handled in this configuration.

The original photographs are retained as a design comparison. They do not establish current availability or certify the materials of either watch.

Contact Diamonds by Raymond Lee in Boca Raton to ask about a similar piece and confirm current availability.

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