No Patek Philippe watch comes cheap, but at least with the white gold Nautilus 5712G, you get impressive complications and precious metal. If you are going to spend the equivalent of a nice luxury car on a timepiece, it might as well be a gold watch that is highly complicated. Additionally, some baguette diamonds set into the bezel, clasp and indices for an added sense of sumptuousness would be nice, right? If this sensibility speaks to you, you are going to love this diamond Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G.
HANDS ON-REVIEW: PATEK PHILIPPE NAUTILUS 5712G WITH AFTERMARKET BAGUETTE DIAMONDS
The Nautilus 5712G combines a classic look that is the Nautilus with high complications. It is a very rare example of a complicated Nautilus in white gold. This sensational watch is stunning, handsome, versatile and very easy to wear.
The 5712 remains unchanged since its launch back in 2006. It has the traditional Nautilus slim 40mm porthole-shaped case with a three-part construction that features “ears” on both sides, as well as the smooth, curvaceous octagonal bezel and the gradient, horizontally embossed dial.
What’s different from the more commonly seen Nautilus 5711 is the movement’s complications, which are displayed via the dial. It has a moonphase calendar, a running seconds sub-register, and a power reserve indicator, all of which are scattered over the dial in a somewhat haphazard manner. It’s the genius of Patek Philippe to be able to house numerous complications in the same slender case that we were blessed with back in 1976 when Gerald Genta created the Nautilus.
Overall, the precious metal 5712 takes a classic sporty watch and turns it into something more dressy with its alligator leather strap. Nevertheless, it still has the standard Nautilus’ any-occasion versatility, just with a more complex horological touch.
The watch is rich, sophisticated, and smart. Elegance and distinction is its core strength.
Let’s go into more depth on the individual elements that make up this particular white gold Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712 with aftermarket diamonds…
AFTERMARKET BAGUETTE DIAMONDS
The Patek Philippe 5712G you see here has aftermarket baguette diamonds in the bezel, clasp and indices. Everything else is original and straight from the geniuses at Patek Philippe. The baguettes are extremely high quality and they were set to perfection by an expert gem-setter. They are not going anywhere. The setting is up to par with Patek’s standards.
These days, nothing is hotter than baguette diamond settings for Patek Philippe watches. At least for those who are not stubborn purists who think of a watch in terms of resale value (a financial investment) rather than simply getting something that catches the eye and that they appreciate for its beauty (an emotional investment).
Of course, we understand the thinking “why mess with something that’s already perfect”. But aftermarket settings, when done right, are surely a worthy work of art as well. This is why they have exploded in popularity over the last decade. Not everyone thinks like a traditionalist.
All that said, in terms of value, the great thing about buying an existing aftermarket diamond watch like this is the value is stable. The person who bought it new and then did the aftermarket diamond work took the loss. The price of it now, as it is pre-owned, will hold and most likely appreciate with time. After all, white gold, diamonds and Patek Philippe watches, especially the 5712, are only increasing in value.
All in all, this watch is absolutely stunning. This baguette setting complements the white gold Nautilus 5712 so perfectly it would likely surprise you to know that it isn’t a factory creation if you didn’t know anything about the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G.
PATEK’S 18K GREY GOLD
Patek’s white gold is known in the industry as grey gold. It is a homogenous gold alloy, made specifically by Patek Philippe, that never needs to be re-plated. So, if it happens to get scratches or scuffs, there is simply more white gold underneath. Unlike conventional jewelry’s white gold which is a milky yellow white gold with rhodium plating.
The point is this white gold will last forever and it is unconditionally lustrous.
CLASSIC NAUTILUS 40MM CASE & OCTAGONAL BEZEL
The case of this Nautilus, as always, is slim yet structurally expressive. The iconic clamp-like ears on the sides vividly express how the Nautilus is put together. The master Gerald Genta’s pencil stroke was not lost in the 5712’s design.
It is a classic 40mm, but because of the winglet style of the case, it sits broader on the wrist, giving you more wrist presence. It also creates the perfect balance and symmetry.
Now, for a more accurate understanding of the fit on the wrist, the lug-to-lug measurement of the watch is a compact 44.4mm. However, from the baguette diamond links that connect the bracelet, it is 50.4mm. This is a better measurement as that is where the case really ends when spanning the wrist. Because of that, this watch is perfect for anyone with a 14-16/17cm circumference wrist.
As for thickness, in spite of the complexity, the Nautilus 5712G is slim at 8.6mm thick. The calibre 240 micro-rotor enables the 5712 to preserve its standard low profile.
But, it’s not all about size, the finer details should be emphasized…
The case of this Nautilus 5712 is 18k white gold. It has an all brushed finish that is absolutely stunning. The high-level finishing is instantly recognizable. The finishing is really is next level on the gold version, when compared to the steel, even though the steel is fantastic as well. It must be the softness of the white gold that allows the grain of the finishing to be more defined. It produces a more lustrous matte look and feel than it does on steel. On the whole, the finishing has a charm to it that everyone mentions when they see the watch in person.
As for the bezel, it is the classic Gerald Genta rounded octagonal design, which like the case itself, has been unadulterated since the Nautilus was first created by sketch in the 70s.
If you look at the watch from the profile, you can see that the only mirror finishing on the case is the beveled edges of the bezel, as well as some other small elements.
The top of the bezel was originally brushed finished, but now, of course, it has an astounding channel of superbly cut baguette diamonds.
On the left ear of the watch, we have a small dimple pusher, which works together with the crown to control the moonphase calendar.
Finally, connecting the strap to the case is the unique bubble links. They replicate the look of the case itself, which is a cushion shape. Normally that is a high-polish piece, but since this one has baguette diamonds, the high polishing is replaced with a hall of mirrors-like chandelier radiance that the baguette diamonds create. It’s a more advanced shimmer for diamond lovers.
60m Water Resistance
Because of the construction of the case and the through fittings which allow you to actuate the complications, the watch has a 60 meter water resistance ratings rather than 120 meters across the rest of the Nautilus collection. We like to call it “semi-aquatic”, but get a rubber strap for it if you want to do water activities with it as the leather strap is not ideal.
CALIBRE 240 MICRO-ROTOR MOVEMENT
When you turn the watch over, you can see a gorgeous crystal caseback displaying horological art in its highest form. If you appreciate canonical movements, you will really enjoy the details it beholds.
One of our favorite aspects of the movement is its micro-rotor. It’s a very cool feature that makes a little noise, letting you know this watch is alive.
The 240 micro-rotor automatic movement has multiple benefits. Patek placed the rotor in the same plane as the rest of the bridges, allowing the watch to be very thin. Moreover, by placing the rotor in the same plane as the bridges, you don’t have the blockage that happens when a central rotor automatic is set up, whereby the winding system bridge and the rotor cover, at a minimum, half of the movement.
The watch has 38 to 48 hours of power reserve thanks to a 21,600 vibrations per hour beat rate. It features a free sprung balance with gyromax designed architecture, taking a precise regulation and holding it firm in case of bumps, disruptions and concussions. That’s the beauty of gyromax, it is extremely shock resistant.
The calibre 240 also features a silicon hairspring, so you have the Patek Philippe Spiromax hairspring in silicon for a high-level of anti-magnetism.
More innovations are the unlubricated ceramic bearings, which give the watch higher efficiency. The rotor itself is made from 22k gold. The edges of the bridges are all mirror polish so they gleam and glisten.
The watch is extraordinarily accurate and technically stunning.
It’s finishing is to a standard that only Patek Philippe can achieve. The craftsmanship that goes into this watch is inimitable. You can see why it takes Patek Philippe so long to complete a single watch. Even the smallest details are exquisite. For example, every black screw is high polish and every screw hole has chamfer edges.
Unfortunately, only Patek will know just how meticulous the attention to detail is because much of the mastery rests beneath the layers of the movement. Nevertheless, it is a certainty that they finished everything to the highest level, even knowing no one will see it.
Before we get into the complications on the dial, let’s talk about the characteristics of its base.
The base of the dial itself is lustrous and reactive. It has a gradient sunburst blue over linear striations that run horizontally along the dial. This horizontal embossing of the dial has been a part of the Nautilus since day one. It gives it uniqueness while also adding different focal planes to the dial. It plays with light, changing from a dark to lighter color. In certain light, it pops so incredibly. What’s more, the horizontally embossed ridged lines create a ripple effect, which adds wonderful contrast, definition and detail to the dial.
Now to the complications…
The complications displayed are: power reserve at the top left, small running seconds at the bottom right, moon phase with a radial calendar at the bottom left, and, of course, the hour and minute hand at the center.
All of these complications are fully lumed, so it is perfectly legible at night.
It is interesting how the complications on the dial are somewhat haphazardly placed. It is a throwback to an earlier era, and we are not talking about the 1970s when the Nautilus was first created… We are talking about way, way back. The set up reminds us of a complicated pocket watch from the late 1800s, where they would scatter their complications across the dial above the pinion driven by any particular complicated mechanism. Very interesting aesthetic by Patek Philippe.
Lastly, all of the indices are all applied 18k white gold (as are the luminous hands at center), and they are original, but they have been carved and set with baguette diamonds cut for exactness.
BLACK ALLIGATOR LEATHER STRAP
The Patek Philippe 5712 White Gold Nautilus has a beautiful gloss finish alligator strap. It is matte black large rectangular scale alligator leather, but in certain lights, it almost has a blue tone to it. The contrasting gray stitch along the sides match the white gold perfectly.
The structure of the strap is flat with sheer sides. This makes it substantial, but not bolstered. The flat taper design matches the swell of the baguette diamond lugs almost flawlessly.
On the underside, it has smooth calfskin. Over the years, the strap will soften up, making it more and more comfortable.
Overall, it’s a super handsome strap made from the finest quality leather.
Twin Trigger Diamond Clasp
The strap has a standard sporty Nautilus clasp. It is twin-trigger deployant clasp with a screw that integrates into the leather strap, which is brilliant because it allows for a much higher level of durability. The clasp will never pop out of the leather or cause the leather strap to wear.
Its twin trigger clasp has a remarkable degree of articulation too. So it won’t pinch the wrist like a one big up-and-over clasp. Moreover, it has a trigger release system ensuring the watch will never pop open on your wrist.
Another thing to appreciate about the clasp is it is low profile, so it is really comfortable and it won’t be susceptible to desk diving.
Because this watch has aftermarket diamonds, six baguette diamonds took place of the “Nautilus” engraving on the clasp. It perfectly fills the center edging of the clasp.
The rest of the clasp has a beautiful high polish finish, which complements the baguette diamonds’ watery shine magnificently.
We love how the richness of the white gold Patek Nautilus 5712 is more subtle than the rose gold version (5712R), even with the baguette diamonds. With baguettes, you get a diamond flare that is more subdued. It’s rich, but not in your face.
While this is a watch made for special occasions, it undoubtedly can be an everyday piece. You’d just want to avoid wearing it in water with the leather strap.
All around, the 5712 is a major winner, especially for those who appreciate diamond white gold Patek Philippe Nautilus watches. Everyone who sees this watch at Diamonds By Raymond Lee adores it. The only issue for most is it comes with a heavy price tag.
Want to see more Diamond Patek Philippe Nautilus Watches?
Peep these two completely diamond Nautilus watches. You can learn more about aftermarket diamond settings for Patek’s here.